Orcas Island Wrap

Well, I finally finished the Orcas Island Wrap - a tribute to one of my favorite places in Washington. It was my first design and it had some challenges, but I'm happy with the final product. I started the project with several critical resources:

Vogue Knitting: Ultimate Knitting Book (chapter on design)
7 Things That Can Make or Break a Sweater (mirrored increasing and decreasing)
Knitting on the Edge and Knitting Over the Edge (for decorative edges)

I double knit Handmaiden Camel Spin with Silken on US 6 needles. The edging on the bottom, sleves and collar were taken from Knitting Over the Edge (Ribbing Eyelet Rib) and Knitting On the Edge (Fancy Leaf Edging). One initial mistake I made was to knit the body as one piece. I don't recommend doing this. When I put it on, the waist was way too bulky. Thankfully, I found a good tailor who was able to cut and seem the pieces to give it more shape. A good tailor is always a perfect back-up plan. But, don't take your sweater to just anyone. A good sign is if they are experienced in tailoring couture pieces - you can even contact the department store in your area and ask who they use.

I can't write the pattern out just yet as I need to recalculate doing it the right way (as 3 separate pieces. Here is what I can tell you for a size small (4-6).

Materials
1 skein Blue Sky Alpacas Alpaca Silk (for edging and i-chord)
4 skeins Handmaiden Fine Yarn CamelSpin in Evergreen (green/gray variegated color)
3 skeins Handmaiden Fine Yarn Mini Maiden in Silver
US size 6 (4 mm) circular needles 32" or size to obtain gauge
Gauge
5.5 sts/1" on US 6

I'll work on writing the pattern out and will post later.

Dabbling in Design...Orcas Island Wrap

Well, I received my letter back from the TKGA. And the verdict is....DENIED! Not that I expected to pass, but I definitely didn't expect to be required to knit the darn hat pattern again - I was off gauge...UGH. I've been avoiding redoing the various swatches and questions with gusto for months. So much so that I decided it would be a better use of my time to design my own sweater. This all started because I was naive enough to believe that because I have modified sweater patterns, starting from scratch with my own design would be a piece of cake....I think I would have been better off focusing on the TKGA resubmission. Oh well.

It's almost done now and not without its share of hiccups. But, I must say that I'm in love with the yarn. I double knit Handmaiden Camel Spin (camel hair and silk) with Mini Maiden (merino and silk) on a size 6 needle. I used a leaf border that I found in Knitting on the Edge. I'll post photos once it's done.....and then I'll start on the TKGA resubmission.

TKGA Master Knitting Level 1

I've neglected my knitting for the past 10 months (and subsequently my blog) due to enrolling in the TKGA Master Knitting Program last August. By complete accident, while riding a ferry to the San Juan Islands, I met a woman who was planning to enroll in the program. We began to meet and she then found another lady going through the program too! Our small group spent several months together meeting and supporting each other through the endless swatches, questions, the hat project and the final report. I can say that I'm not sure how anyone does the first level alone. It was soo nice to have the support of two other knitters experiencing the same issues and assisting eachother in finding the solutions. If you are considering the program, I highly recommend it. Don't be intimidated if you are a new knitter like me. Really, the sooner the better before developing "bad habits." Here are a few tips from what I found to be helpful:

• Use the Lantern Moon needles. The lovely tips on these needles make working the techniques to TKGA standard much easier.

• Pull all the Master Knitter Level 1 relevant articles from the website once you get your password. Many of your answers are contained within these pages.
  

• Also, you can find MOST of the answers to the Level 1 questions in 2 books: Vogue Knitting, The Ultimate Knitting Book and Seven Things That Can make or Break a Sweater. Seven Things is written by a TKGA Master Knitter and she gives a whole formula that you can't find anywhere else (to my knowledge) on evenly spaced increases and decreases in ribbing and St st. Also, there are two great diagrams on pages 29 and 30 that show which decreases mirror eachother. If you're like me, you forget this often! Other topics: which side of the Cast On edge is public edge, twisted stitches, invisible increases, mirrored increases, blocking, picking up stitches, buttonholes and there are great diagrams in the back on seaming. Some people like the Interweave book and the Reader's Digest book, but this is what worked best for me. Another one that my friend likes is the Knitting in Plain English book. Again, all very good references but I liked the simple format and the diagrams contained in Vogue and Seven Things.
  

• Read and re-read the instructions - it really can mess you up if you don't.
  

• REFERENCE, REFERENCE, REFERENCE! Seriously, don't forget to provide references on EVERYTHING.
  

• Buy a binder, binder tabs and heavy-duty page protectors. Create the following tabs (be sure the size of the binder is to TKGA specifications): Instructions, Cover Letter, Swatches, Report, Project, Questions and Bibliography.

• Buy Avery business card templates and use them as your labels for the swatches. You just need to punch a hole in the corner and use string to tie them to the top left corner of the swatches. You can format them on your computer, print references on the front and print contact information on the back. I listed the following information on the front of each business card: Swatch #, Yarn, Techniques (list all including your CO and BO technique), and References (multiple if possible).

• Be thourough when blocking but don't flatten your stitches. If you don't have one, get a hand-held steamer. I have an old Black Decker that they don't sell anymore but there's a decent one at Bed Bath & Beyond for $39.99. See http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?order_num=-1&SKU=14782079. If you join their mailing list, you get a 20% coupon every couple of weeks. Target also sells affordable steamers.

I submitted just a couple of weeks ago and I'm sure I'll have more tips and feedback once I get their response in 3 months. Stay tuned...

Happy Knitting!

Of Dummies and Dress Forms

After months of searching for a bargain deal, I finally bit the bullet and bought a dress form. Below are a few tips if you decide to go this route:

• Know your measurements - if you're not sure how to do this, Vogue Knitting, the Ultimate Knitting Book has instructions with a diagram on pg. 166-167. Or, cheat and go to a tailor. But, sooner or later you need to know how to do this and Vogue is an EXCELLENT knitting techniques resource - it really is the gift that keeps on giving.
  

• Avoid the adjustable dress forms sold in the mega yarn, fabric & craft stores. They're terrible and fall apart quite easily. I've heard nothing but bad things from very good people who dropped $200 and up for these types of forms.

• Try Craigslist.com - I found several good ones but you have to be VERY quick - I searched for a month but didn't get lucky.

• Try eBay - there is a great store called PGM Pro Dress Form and Display. When I scrolled down I discovered it was located near me in Los Angeles. I went to the warehouse and, I can tell you first hand, it's the real deal. If you have to order from out of town, then rest assured. They have a very good rating on eBay. You can get all varieties of the PGM models for MUCH less from this store. However, if you're just displaying your wares like me (and not actually sewing something - God forbid!), then you don't need this high of a caliber of dress form.

• I found my pinnable dress form (really a display form) at Main Store Display and Fixtures for $85 with the stand. It's very close to my measurements. Most wholesale retail display stores will have these models so I recommend Googling "wholesale retail display" in your area. Or, if you sew and have always wanted the professional PGM, try eBay or visit the store in Los Angeles :)

As always, happy knitting!

Jazz Cardigan Part 3 - Adding Waist Shaping

Wow, it's been a while but it's finally finished!!! I made a few more modifications and chose to go with a short sleeve - elbow length - since I am moving to a warmer climate. Using smaller needles, I bordered the pattern with the Fly Design's Nymph in Deep Grey (same yarn used on the Rowan Earn). The Nymph knits up nicely and the sheen is amazing! After searching high and low in specialty stores, I chose mother of pearl buttons with a silver border. I found these for $1.75 for 6 buttons at JoAnn Fabrics - go figure! I've worn the sweater twice now and it feels great. The Handmaiden yarn is simply wonderful against the skin.

Once you get into the chevron pattern, if you want to add waist shaping, you need to figure out where to hide the decreases and increases. Below are instructions based on what I did (also see the diagram photo):

• First, a bit about the pattern: the "sl 2, k1, p2sso" on the RS is matched with the "p1" that starts the repeat pattern on the WS. This is what creates the nice rib between chevrons. You'll know if you are on or off pattern by this. Similarly, in the RS pattern, when you k9, the 5th stitch is going into the yo of the WS pattern (creating a lovely eyelet). It's important to understand the pattern because you want to avoid increases and decreases in the 5th stitch. Rather, place them in the K stitches that form the garter st within the chevron. Thus, it's easiest to plan your decreases and increases on the WS.
• I wanted to decrease at each end at 3" and at 5" and then increase at 7" and 10" based on my measurements. I chose not to dec/inc in the end chevrons. Instead, I placed them in the 2 back middle chevrons. See the diagram.
• To do this, count the number of full chevrons (number of Vs) in the back section of the pattern - this will vary based on the size that you knit. For my sweater, I have 10 full chevrons in the back. So, counting from the edge of where the back starts, my two middle are the 5th and 6th chevron from the left edge.
• Place the first set of decreases in the k4 of the repeat pattern in the outer edge of chevron 5 and 6. The pattern becomes *p1, k1, k2tog, k1, (k1, yo, k1) into next st. PM so you remember where you have decreased. This matters because when you turn your work you need to remember to change the repeat pattern to *k8, sl 2, k1, p2sso...
• Place the second set of decreases in the inner edge of chevrons 5 and 6 and repeat the process as above.
• When you plan your increases, you will M1 where the decreases were implemented.
  

Feel free to email me if this doesn't make sense or you need help.

Happy Knitting!

Jazz Cardigan Part 2 - Adding Buttonholes

After several iterations playing with colors, I think I landed on what I want. I'm going with a two-tone effect using Handmaiden Silken in Ocean and Mahogony. For some reason, the other colors just were not working together even though the skeins looked great side-by-side. This also gave me the opportunity to realize that the "small" is actually quite big as written in the pattern. So, I calculated an x-small based on my measurements. This is my first time doing this so I hope it is right.

Instead of casting on 315, I tried casting on 225 with the idea that I will add decreases at the waist and increases at the chest (the pattern does not include this but I didn't want a boxy sweater). The 225 sts did not produce an even number of chevron patterns across so I undid it and CO 240 sts. This worked well and there are now 20 even chevron patterns - which is important because I want to hide my increases and decreases in the two middle chevrons. I'm going to decrease 2 sts at 3" and 5" for the waist. I will then increase 2 sts at 7" and 10".

BUTTON HOLES
The pattern also does not call for buttons but if you prefer buttons over the hidden snaps (I think they pull), then here is how to work the one-row horizontal buttonholes (Vogue Knitting pg. 204):

• Work 20 rows
• With RS facing K1, SKP
• Bring yarn front, sl st purlwise, bring yarn back, sl next st, pass first slipped stitch over it, slip another st purlwise, psso
• Slip last stitch on right needle to the left needle and turn work
• Use cable cast on WYIB and CO 3 sts, turn work
• Slip the first stitch WYIB from the left needle and pass the extra cast on stitch over it to close the buttonhole

*continue in pattern...

More to come...

Jazz Cardigan Part 1 - Sizing to Fit

OK, while I love the Koigu yarn for its brilliance in color and ultra soft feel, I am not a fan of the color choices in the book, "Knits from a Painter's Palette." I'm not trying to slight you if you love color, but you have to REALLY love color to wear half the stuff that's in the book.

But, I digress. This past summer I saw a rendition of the Jazz Cardigan at Churchmouse Yarn and Tea on Bainbridge Island. Wow, the knitter used Koigu in deep blues, chocolate, tan and sky. It was amazing. I searched and seasrched for these colors but could not find them in stores or on the web. I finally found something close in the Handmaiden Silken line (mahogony and stone) so off I go to knit the Jazz!

I've come across one confusing part of the pattern (at least for me). On the WS Zigzag Pattern, it asks that you "(k1, yo, k1) in next st." I hadn't seen this wording before on an increase but finally figured it out. The eyelet is produced by working the yo increase into the same stitch. So, k1 while keeping st on the left needle, yo onto your right needle and then k1 into the same stitch and slide the stitch over to the right needle. You now have 3 sts from your 1 st.

I have to say that the "Vogue Knitting: the Ultimate Knitting Book" is amazing and very helpful. On to knitting!